Mature skin doesn’t have a standard definition. There isn’t a specific age that, once crossed, puts you in this category. But dermatologists say that your skin starts to change in your forties, when concerns like dryness, fine lines, and wrinkles become more common.
“Oil and collagen production peak from ages 15 to 25, and then we ride that wave until our forties,” says Heather Rogers, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle.
Age is just a number, but if your skin is exhibiting signs of aging that concern you, these dermatologist-recommended skin-care hacks may help.
1. Tweak Your Retinoid
However, as skin matures and becomes more dry, it may be more prone to irritation from retinoids. “Their forties are one of the first times people notice that skin-care ingredients are irritating their skin. They may have used a product for years but can’t tolerate it now,” says Dr. Rogers.
If that sounds like your experience, you don’t necessarily have to give up on retinoids. Rogers recommends making one of these tolerance-boosting tweaks to how you use them:
- Reduce Frequency Use your retinoid every other day, instead of daily.
- Reduce the Amount If your dermatologist previously recommended applying a pea-sized amount to your skin, ask them about a smaller dose.
- Shift the Product If you’ve been using a prescription-strength retinoid, try a retinol instead (a less potent over-the-counter version). If that’s still too much, you can consider using bakuchiol, a plant extract that can also stimulate collagen production but with less risk of side effects, suggests Rogers. One systematic review of 29 articles concluded that bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, but it noted that additional studies are warranted.
2. Try Skin ‘Slugging’
3. Spray on Midday SPF
Dermatologists also recommend reapplying sunscreen every two hours if you’re outside or if you’re exposed to the sun in other ways (such as riding in a car). That’s not always practical, especially if you have makeup on. In that case, you have three options that both preserve your existing makeup and protect your skin, says Rogers:
- Apply a tinted sunscreen (and reapply as needed).
- Touch up with makeup that contains sunscreen (like a powder).
- Spritz on a facial mist sunscreen (and reapply as needed).
4. Reconsider Washing Your Face in the Morning if Your Skin Is Dry
But that doesn’t mean you should roll out of bed and just go about your day. Rogers recommends splashing your face with lukewarm water and gently blotting off excess moisture with a towel. Starting with a clean — but not stripped — canvas allows the active ingredients in your morning skin-care routine to be better absorbed into your skin, she explains.
If you do use a cleanser, minimize dryness and irritation by washing your face with one that is gentle, nonirritating, and fragrance-free, says Jessica Garelik, DO, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (You can identify one of these by the label, which will use words like “gentle,” “fragrance-free,” “for sensitive skin,” or “barrier protecting.”) To make sure your cleanser is hydrating, look for products with ingredients that help lock in moisture, including lipids, ceramides, or humectants, Dr. Garelik recommends.
5. Change Up Your Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is acidic, and it can cause irritation (especially for more irritation-prone, dry, mature skin), so Rogers recommends looking for a formulation that contains THD ascorbate, a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (this will be noted on the label or in the product description). “THD is much better tolerated by mature skin,” she says. That’s because the THD version has a neutral pH, which is gentler on skin.
6. Fit in Regular Exercise
“Exercise promotes blood flow to muscle and to the skin, particularly body skin that has laxity or cellulite,” says Rogers. For overall health, aim for 30 minutes per day of moderate exercise most days of the week.
7. Use the Right Eye Cream
According to research, specific eye cream ingredients may help with the following issues:
- For Hyperpigmentation Niacinamide, caffeine, vitamin E, and vitamin C
- For Puffiness Caffeine
- For Wrinkles Caffeine, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide
In addition, if you’re struggling with eye puffiness, using cool compresses, sleeping with your head slightly elevated, and limiting high-sodium foods can all help deflate the eye area, says Garelik.
Some medical conditions, such as allergies or thyroid disease, can also cause under-eye puffiness, she adds. See a board-certified dermatologist for an evaluation, and they can help identify the cause and create a treatment plan that’s specific for you.
8. Consider Oral Collagen
Although studies are mixed and research is limited and evolving, one recent systematic review and meta-analysis out of Taiwan of 26 randomized controlled trials involving 1,721 patients found that oral collagen supplementation significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity, compared with the placebo group. However, researchers noted that further large-scale trials are necessary to confirm these findings.
“Oral collagen is not life-changing, and studies suggest a small improvement in fine lines around the eyes. It is well-tolerated and easy to take [for most healthy people]. I use it myself,” Rogers says.
Be sure to speak to your healthcare provider before starting oral collagen — or any supplement — as supplements are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and may interact with certain conditions and drugs. One consideration when taking collagen is it may contain toxins and heavy metals, given that it’s typically made from animal parts. Always look for a supplement that has third-party testing, which is an indication of its safety and purity.
9. Talk to Your Dermatologist About Vitamin B3
“It doesn’t replace your sunscreen, but provides added [sun-protection] benefits,” Rogers says. Remember that you should always speak to your doctor before starting any new supplements.
The Takeaway
- Mature skin does not have an official definition, but dermatologists describe it as skin that shows signs of aging, such as dryness, hyperpigmentation, and lines and wrinkles.
- Some anti-aging skin-care tips include skipping cleansing in the morning if your skin is dry; “slugging,” which means applying a second layer of thick cream or ointment on top of the first; and adjusting retinoid use.
- Certain supplements may improve skin health and may even reduce the risk of skin cancer, such as nicotinamide (a form of vitamin B3). But be sure to speak to your dermatologist or primary care doctor before starting any new supplement, as they aren’t regulated by the FDA and may interact with certain medications and chronic conditions.
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