Gel manicures are a go-to at many nail salons because they’re long-lasting, high-shine, and chip-resistant. But the European Union just announced a ban on a gel polish ingredient crucial to achieving these qualities: trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO.
However, gel nail polishes containing TPO are still available in the United States, leaving salongoers to wonder about possible risks.
What Is TPO?
Gel nail polish is formulated and applied differently than standard nail polish. While regular nail polish air dries, gel polish must be cured under a special ultraviolet (UV) or LED lamp for up to 90 seconds. This ensures that it will last a few weeks.
TPO is considered a “photoinitiator,” meaning it helps absorb energy from the UV or LED light, and “accelerates the polymerization of acrylate monomers in gel polishes,” says Chris Adigun, MD, a dermatologist who specializes in nail disorders and the founder of Dermatology and Laser Center of Chapel Hill in North Carolina. To translate: TPO creates the hard, durable surface that makes gel polish appealing.
Not all gel nail products contain TPO, Dr. Adigun notes.
Is TPO Harmful to Your Health?
Currently, there are no large-scale human studies on the health effects of TPO, says Sharrón L. Manuel, MD, a reproductive endocrinologist and infertility specialist at HRC Fertility in Pasadena, California.
“The primary concern comes from high-dose animal studies where TPO was orally administered to rats, causing adverse reproductive effects,” she explains. “Female rats showed signs of complete infertility, while male rats experienced reduced testes [testicle] size and sperm counts.”
The EU classifies TPO as a category 1B “reproductive toxicant,” based on the presumed negative effects on human fertility or reproduction, Dr. Manuel says.
“Although the route of administration in these animal studies is very different than a human exposed through gel manicure, the EU is still being cautious, as the data isn’t there yet to rule out potential harm to humans,” she says.
Manuel agrees with the ban: “We don’t have enough data yet to be extremely worried, but we also don’t have enough data to support the safety of the use of gel nail polish containing TPO in humans.”
Other experts also support the EU’s decision. “This precautionary ban — meaning no dangerous effects of TPO have yet to be observed — seems reasonable given the widespread popularity of gel manicures and the paucity of safety data for both gel manicure enthusiasts and salon workers,” Adigun says.
She adds that while the nail plate acts as a “formidable barrier to systemic absorption of TPO and other nail cosmetic ingredients” for people receiving gel manicures, nail salon workers may be exposed to TPO and other photoinitiators by inhaling or ingesting gel dust — and there’s limited data on the risks posed by this kind of chronic, low-level exposure.
There is currently no restriction on TPO in gel polish in the United States. A spokesperson from the Personal Care Products Council, a trade group representing cosmetics and personal care companies, said that in the United States, companies must demonstrate to the Food and Drug Administration that the items they manufacture and sell — including gel polishes that contain TPO — are safe and comply with FDA regulations. In other words, if a product is available in stores and salons, the FDA does not believe it poses a hazard.
The industry is committed to “upholding the highest standards of safety, quality, and transparency,” the spokesperson said.
Should You Avoid Gel Manicures?
There’s no solid evidence that TPO poses fertility risks or other health hazards to humans. But if you’re worried, you can buy TPO-free gel polish or request it at your salon
“Eventually, this ban may influence beauty product regulatory trends globally, and we may start to see more TPO-free products being developed,” Manuel says.
If you’re actively trying to conceive or you’re in your first trimester of pregnancy, when fetal development is critical, Manuel suggests limiting your exposure or avoiding TPO if possible.
“As a reproductive endocrinology and infertility specialist, I tend to be more cautious and conservative until we can prove that TPO is safe,” she says.
Gel Manicures Have Been Linked to Other Health Risks
Even gel manicures without TPO polishes can be “tough on nails,” according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).
Gel manicures can lead to brittle, peeling, or cracking nails, and the repeated exposure to UV light could increase the risk for skin cancer and speed up skin aging on the hands. Acetone in polish removers can also be harsh on skin.
The AAD offers the following recommendations for healthy nails:
- Apply sunscreen to your hands before UV light exposure.
- Avoiding picking at the polish on your nails.
- Only soak your fingertips (rather than your whole hand) in acetone to remove polish.
- Take breaks between manicures.
- Moisturize your nails and cuticles.
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