You’ve probably heard about the pregnancy glow that often occurs during the second trimester—pink cheeks, dewy skin. Unfortunately, that’s not the only phase your complexion will go through when you’re expecting—and some of the other effects aren’t quite as rosy. Everyone experiences these shifts differently, but you may also experience more breakouts (thanks, oilier skin), or you could start seeing an increase in dark spots or even brown patches pop up along your cheeks and forehead—known as melasma, the “mask of pregnancy.” Some women experience dry skin patches.
What’s behind all these shifts? “Thanks to the hormonal changes that occur during pregnancy and an increase in blood volume, a woman’s skin is constantly changing and responding when she is expecting,” says Alexandra Bowles, DO, a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology. That’s why proper skincare might be more critical than ever when you’re pregnant.
It can also be confusing.
It’s well-known that there are certain ingredients that are not safe to use due to their potential effects on a developing fetus. How do you know which? That’s where dermatologists come in. Here, three pros are sharing the skincare ingredients you should avoid while pregnant as well as the safe, gentle, and effective options you can use look and feel your best.
Meet the experts: Alexandra Bowles, DO, is a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology. Tiina Meder, MD, is a dermatologist and founder of Meder Beauty. Ava Shamban, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, owner of Ava MD, and founder of Althaea Skin.
Skincare Ingredients To Avoid During Pregnancy
“While we have recommendations, there aren’t a lot of clinical studies on the true effects certain ingredients can have on both the person who is expecting and the developing fetus,” says Dr. Bowles. That’s why you’ll want to err on the side of caution by avoiding these products and ingredients.
- Retinoids: “The use of retinol during pregnancy is associated with Fetal Retinoid Syndrome (FRS),” says Tiina Meder, MD, dermatologist and founder of Meder Beauty. “It’s essentially a malformation of embryo development, causing a range of physical and mental developmental issues that can vary from mild to severe.” Examples include growth delays, skull and facial malformations, developmental delays, and potential heart abnormalities. While the above issues have typically occurred with oral retinoid use, derms still advise steering clear of topical retinoids, says Dr. Meder. The same goes for tazarotene and Accutane, which are both vitamin A derivatives, and thus, retinoids. Typically, tazarotene is prescribed as a cream to treat psoriasis and acne, while Accutane is medication taken orally for acne. “Accutane is highly teratogenic and can cause severe birth defects,” says Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, owner of Ava MD, and creator of Althaea Skin. “Tazarotene, another topical retinoid, has similar risks and should be avoided.”
- Salicylic Acid: Pregnancy may not be the time to use this pimple-fighting ingredient in your at-home skincare routine for acne. “While low concentrations may be safe, higher ones, like those found in peels or strong treatments, can be absorbed systemically and have potential risks, particularly during the first trimester,” says Dr. Shamban. Dr. Bowles agrees: “Salicylic acid can affect fetal development, so it’s best to avoid strong formulas like this,” she says.
- Chemical Sunscreen: It’s often said that the best sunscreen is the one you’ll wear—but that’s not the case during pregnancy. It’s important to look at labels and choose a mineral or physical sunscreen over a chemical one, since the latter can be absorbed into the skin. “Ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate disrupt hormones and have been linked to reproductive toxicity,” says Dr. Shamban. “Mineral sunscreens (with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) are often recommended as safer alternatives.”
- Benzoyl Peroxide: As Dr. Meder notes, no published studies of this acne-fighter on pregnant patients exist. For that reason—and the fact that benzoyl peroxide tends to be harsh on skin in general—she still thinks skipping this ingredient is best. “Although low concentrations may be considered relatively safe, higher concentrations can be absorbed and might pose risks, particularly in the first trimester,” adds Dr. Shamban.
- Hydroquinone: “This skin-lightening agent can be absorbed through the skin and is associated with potential risks for fetal development, so it’s best avoided during pregnancy,” says Dr. Shamban. If you’re looking to lighten dark spots, there are plenty of pregnancy-safe and effective options on the market that don’t use hydroquinone.
- Essential Oils: You’ll want to lay off the aromatherapy massages while you’re expecting, as Dr. Meder says essential oils are all different, volatile, highly absorptive, and not well-studied individually or as a group. If that wasn’t reason enough, these substances are also said to potentially stimulate unwanted contractions. “Some essential oils, such as rosemary or sage, can trigger contractions or other adverse effects,” says Dr. Shamban. “So, it’s always best to consult a healthcare provider about safe usage.”
- Hair Dye: “Hair dye could cause some potential concerns during pregnancy, though it’s usually pretty safe if you take some precautions and do your research,” says Dr. Bowles. “If you want to be extra cautious, consider using a semi-permanent or natural hair dye. When it comes to hair-coloring techniques, highlights or balayage are a great option, since no dye is actually touching your scalp.” If you decide to go see a stylist, Dr. Bowles adds that you can even ask for gentle and chemical-free products. Botanical dyes and plant-based formulas are likely your best option here.
Don’t see a skincare ingredient on this list that you love? Unfortunately, that’s not a license to use it. “Truly, the list of pregnancy safe ingredients is short, and the ‘do not use’ list is vast, so make sure you are checking with your OBGYN when questioning any particular skincare, medication, or foods,” says Dr. Bowles.
It’s also important to know that Botox and other injectable treatments—as well as laser treatments—shouldn’t be a part of your skincare regimen either when you’re trying to conceive or expecting. “Botox and fillers contain toxins that could possibly affect the fetus, so I recommend avoiding them altogether,” says Dr. Bowles. “Chemical peels are also unsafe, as they use strong acids that can really irritate the skin and eventually may get absorbed into your system. Laser treatments can lead to an increase in pigmentation and skin sensitivity, and there’s not enough research on this to determine if it’s safe during pregnancy, therefore we typically do not recommend this.”
Products With Ingredients That Are Pregnancy-Safe
You can still give your complexion some affection during pregnancy. It’s all about simple steps and hydrating formulas. “To keep skin healthy and hydrated, using fragrance-free moisturizers, applying sunscreen, and practicing gentle cleansing are key,” says Dr. Bowles. “A balanced diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants can also support skin health.” While the following essentials can generally be used without worry, it’s always a good idea to loop in your dermatologist and OBGYN just so they’re aware of your specific routine.
Gentle Moisturizers and Cleansers
“Make sure you are using a gentle and fragrance-free moisturizer to avoid any irritation,” says Dr Bowles. “Also, gentle and mild cleansers are a great option.” Weleda’s Deep Cleansing Gel packs a hydrating punch with aloe, a pregnancy-friendly ingredient Dr. Bowles says “can help rejuvenate your skin.” Honey and natural oils, like coconut and jojoba, are other hero ingredients Dr. Bowles suggests looking for in moisturizers and masks.
Mineral Sunscreen
A pregnancy-safe sunscreen should be one of your foundational skincare products while you’re expecting. Dr. Shamban likes EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46. “[It’s] a lightweight, mineral-based sunscreen suitable for sensitive skin and effective against UV rays,” she says. Any mineral sunscreen, however, should do; the whole point is that these formulas protect without absorption.
EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
Vitamin C and Niacinamide
According to Dr. Meder, these brightening and dark spot correcting ingredients are “absolutely safe” to use no matter what trimester you’re in. “They are circulating in our body naturally and cannot be overdosed, as they are water soluble vitamins,” Dr. Meder says. “For expecting mothers who want a vitamin C in their routine, Phloretin and SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic are great options,” recommends Dr. Bowles.
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C Serum
Bakuchiol
If you’re looking for a retinol alternative, serums with bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative, can address similar anti-aging concerns. Dr. Meder likes ISDIN Melatonik Night Serum, which features bakuchiol alongside other powerhouse but safe ingredients. “[It’s] an original formulation enriched with melatonin, an antioxidant form of vitamin C, and skin-identical squalane” that’s “great for everyone experiencing age-related skin changes and sleep deprivation,” she says.
ISDIN Melatonik Overnight Recovery Serum
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is prized “for its anti-inflammatory properties and effectiveness against acne and rosacea,” says Dr. Shamban. “Prescription azelaic acid is also typically considered safe to use,” says Dr. Bowles. An over-the-counter option? The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream, which is budget-friendly and can help with pregnancy melasma, too, if you happen to experience it.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Danielle Blundell is a New York City-based lifestyle writer and editor who has written on topics ranging from home to health for a variety of publications including Rachael Ray Every Day, Redbook, Family Circle, This Old House, Elle Decor, Esquire, Domino, and Apartment Therapy. She’s a graduate of Columbia University’s School of Journalism and has appeared as an on-air expert on Today, The Doctors, The Celebrity Page, and other local news programs. Website: https://danielleblundell.myportfolio.com/
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