Contrast makeup theory is not exactly new. In fact, some makeup pros might argue it’s as old as contouring or lining your lips. Still, many of us have never heard of the theory—and many have yet to apply it to our beauty routines. If you’re suddenly seeing the term all over social media and want to understand exactly what everyone is talking about—and how to make it work for yourself—here’s all the info you need.
What is contrast makeup theory?
To understand the concept behind contrast makeup theory, it’s helpful to first consider your wardrobe. If you’ve ever had your colors done—or simply possess a well-honed eye—you probably already know which hues complement your skin and hair tone. Contrast makeup theory takes that same concept and applies it to your beauty strategy by determining which shades and tones are most flattering for your features based on your hair and complexion.
“This technique consists of using certain parameters—mainly the tone of our skin, eyes, hair, and eyebrows—to measure our level of contrast, and from there you can work with the tones that suit you best,” says Aliénor, the French makeup artist who brought this viral theory to the forefront. According to her, there are three main types of contrasts one could possess: high, medium, and low. She’s even created a TikTok filter that makes figuring out your own contrast level easier.
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Another way to figure it out? Desaturate a photo of yourself to get a sense of the difference in grayscale. The level of contrast—or lack of contrast—between your eyes, skin, and other features will give you a sense of your overall contrast level. From there, the idea is to simply use makeup shades that correspond to that level. Those with high contrast would want to lean towards intense, darker colors, while those with low contrast would reach for softer shades. It’s all about harmonizing your makeup’s intensity to suit the contrast of your own natural coloring.
High contrast makeup
High contrast applies to those whose hair, eyes, and eyebrows have—you guessed it—a high contrast with their skin tone. The most common cases are those who have very dark hair and pale faces, such as Anne Hathaway, Lily Collins, or Ana de Armas, but it could potentially apply to someone who has dark skin and light hair as well. In any case, Aliénor recommends emphasizing the high contrast with smoky eyes or a strong lip. According to the expert, any version of a rich red or a darker hue is a surefire win on the lips.
Medium contrast makeup
Zendaya, Emma Watson, Kendall Jenner, Beyoncé, Halle Berry, Naomi Campbell, Issa Rae, and Hailey Bieber are all considered medium contrast: They are somewhere between high and low contrast—that is, there isn’t a vast contrast between their features and skin tone, but there is some. To play up the contrast, Aliénor says saturated or bright lipsticks and blushes work well with this type of contrast. “The medium contrast gives a lot of play and can be made up by raising or lowering the tone a little—for example in eye shadows, blushes, or on the lips—to balance the features,” she says. If you want to highlight a specific feature, you should do so by choosing hues in mid-tones or bright colors that complement the medium contrast you possess. In other words, avoid too many super dark or extremely light hues but feel free to play with rich color or earthy mid tones.
Low contrast makeup
When there is a certain uniformity between the tone of the hair and the eyes, eyebrows, and skin, that’s low contrast makeup. Examples of this can be found in Gigi Hadid, Taylor Swift, Alek Wek, Amanda Seyfried, Anok Yai, or Viola Davis. In these cases, Aliénor says the ideal would be to opt for soft and neutral tones, without intense transitions at any particular point and to play up the features with highlighter.
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