Just off the northeast coast on its own private islet, Cape Fahn Hotel is a retreat with just 24 pool villas. Despite being smaller than most of the other luxury resorts on Samui, the property has some of the finest accommodations, boasting separate living rooms, sustainable amenities, furnished terraces, and a complimentary mini-bar (a much-appreciated rarity). Aside from the sumptuous digs, it also serves some of the most authentic food. At the all-day Hue restaurant, which overlooks the main pool and beach, you’ll find a mix of international and Thai dishes, with the latter being the main attraction. Unlike many other tourism-dependent establishments, the flavors here stay true to what they should be, down to the sweet and pungent shrimp paste relish served alongside grilled pork. The same goes for Long Dtai, the dinner-only restaurant overseen by acclaimed chef David Thompson, where southern Thai dishes take center stage and it’s well worth the visit even if you’re not staying here.
Photo: Courtesy of Banyan Tree Samui
If you’re looking for some privacy on the southeast corner of the island, Banyan Tree Samui delivers. Set on a secluded bay, this 88-key resort boasts large pool villas with thoughtful details like headrests built into the tub, a desk that transforms into a vanity, and a selection of essential oils and incense sticks. While it’s not particularly glitzy, it offers everything you’ll need for a relaxing vacation, including infinity pools with a view of the private beach, a large spa with deft practitioners, and daily complimentary wellness activities, including an aromatherapy class where you can bring home a customized bottle of room spray. And should you want to head into town, Lamai is just a couple of minutes away.
What to Do
Visit the Island’s Many Temples
No trip to Thailand would be complete without seeing a few temples and Samui has its fair share. The two most popular on the island are Wat Phra Yai and Wat Plai Laem. The former features a 39-foot, golden Buddha at the top of the stairs along with panoramic vistas of the coastline. The latter is a modern Buddhist temple complex built atop a pond with staggering statues and vibrant hues. If you’re curious about the pagoda that can be seen from the airport, head up to Chedi Wat Khao Hua Jook, a sacred site believed to house a Buddhist relic that also boasts one of the best views of Chaweng Lake. But there are plenty of less-visited, equally beautiful temples to visit on the island, like Wat Phu Khao Tong. Just keep in mind that when visiting temples, it’s important to respect the culture and dress appropriately.
Get Out on the Water
Barring rainy season, calm, crystal-clear waters beckon. Whether it’s to admire the 42-island archipelago that makes up Ang Thong National Marine Park or to stop by nearby Koh Tao for a scuba diving expedition, you won’t be disappointed. But if you want to take your cue from The White Lotus, head over to neighboring Koh Phangan for a full moon party at Haad Rin Beach.
Spend an Evening at a Market
Night markets are a staple of Thai social culture and while there are a few options on the island, Fisherman’s Village is the most popular and is the one spot Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui’s general manager Jasjit Assi encourages his guests to visit when they’re finally ready to leave the resort and explore the island. Among the street vendors, you’ll also find a slew of beachfront bars and restaurants. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays there’s also an additional pop-up market dubbed the Wharf, where you’ll find stall after stall selling food, drinks, and souvenirs. For something that feels a little more local, head over to Plaza the Green Night Market.
Where to Eat
So good that it’s worth mentioning twice, Long Dtai is where you come for authentic southern Thai with a focus on local ingredients in an elevated setting. Overlooking the Gulf of Thailand from Cape Fahn Hotel, the open kitchen is located right at the entrance, showing guests that they mean business here. The menu is orchestrated by chef David Thompson, who is often recognized as one of the greats when it comes to Thai cooking, having reshaped the cuisine in London with his restaurant Nahm before moving that same concept, and himself, to Bangkok. Now, with Long Dtai, you’ll find an extensive menu of southern specialties that are both familiar and unfamiliar. You won’t find tom yum goong and pad Thai here, but instead classics like deep-fried fish with turmeric and yellow curry with blue swimmer crabs. And fret not, you’ll get a bowl of fresh vegetables to temper down the burn of those bird’s eye chilies, as the Thai do.
Don’t let the bumpy ride deter you, this hidden gem nestled in nature is worth the questionable drive in. Set next to a lotus pond, this outdoor restaurant serves up colorful plates of outstanding Thai food with fresh ingredients, some of which are plucked straight from the garden just steps away from your table. Make sure to start with the miang dok bua, where you’ll assemble a combination of cashews and aromatics onto a pink lotus petal for a delectable wrap that’s a masterclass in contrasting textures and flavors. And if you’d prefer to learn how to make Thai dishes rather than just eat them, they also host cooking classes.
Located on a backstreet in Lamai, this mom-and-pop shop is all about vegan ice cream made with coconut milk. You’ll find a variety of common and unique flavors like Thai tea, durian, and avocado, and each order comes with your choice of toppings (pineapple and sugar palm are this writer’s personal favorites). Want to try everything? Order the special set that uses a coconut shell as a bowl.
When a Thai friend tells you this is the best coconut cake on the island, you believe her and make a beeline to Lolamui Café. Set off the main road that runs through Lamai, this quaint shop looks and feels like you’re stepping into someone’s cozy abode. In addition to its famed coconut cake, you’ll also find plenty of other confections that range from cookies to fruit pies.
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