Her debut collection for Spring/Summer 2017, inspired by fencing, featured slogan tees, which read “We should all be feminists”. That set the tone for her tenure, which consistently referenced women’s empowerment. “The message, really, is that there is not one type of woman,” she told Vogue Runway at the show. Over the years, Chiuri has collaborated with several female artists for show sets, including Judy Chicago, Faith Ringgold, Eva Jospin and Mickalene Thomas. In the Dior SS25 show, Italian artist and competitive archer Sagg Napoli shot arrows at a target as the models did their circuit.
Chiuri also consistently drew on the archives beyond Christian Dior’s era. “Monsieur Dior only [lived] 10 years. It can’t only be about him!” she told Vogue Runway at her debut show. “In some ways, I see myself as a curator of the house.” For example, in 2018, together with CEO Pietro Beccari, who was appointed in 2017, she relaunched the Saddle Bag, one of the house’s iconic bags from the Galliano era. For AW24, she paid homage to Marc Bohan’s invention of the Miss Dior line, and notably the opening of a (now defunct) Miss Dior boutique in 1967, as a way to offer ready-to-wear to couture clients. “I’m very fascinated by this collection and this moment of Mr. Bohan’s history,” she told Vogue Runway. The Dior AW25 show had “Dior-isms”, including nods to Galliano’s Saddle bag and J’Adore Dior T-shirts and to Gianfranco Ferré’s white shirts, according to Vogue Runway.
The designer has navigated the course through the whirlwind of runway shows, including women’s ready-to-wear couture, cruise, and even pre-fall shows (such as the one in Mumbai, which highlighted the works of artisans, and most recently in Kyoto). It all translated into enormous commercial success. Dior couture sales went from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9.5 billion in 2023, per HSBC. Dior isn’t immune to the wider luxury slowdown, though. In 2024, sales decreased to €8.7 billion, according to HSBC. And in the first quarter of 2025, sales of LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division were down 5 per cent. Dior hired Benedetta Petruzzo as managing director, who took up the role on 15 October, reporting to Delphine Arnault, and Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as deputy CEO in April.
In her downtime, as a personal project, Chiuri has been restoring a historic theatre, Rome’s Teatro della Cometa.
The Dior resort 2026 show, held on Tuesday, was “a heartfelt, nearly all-white celebration of Rome, her birthplace”, according to Vogue Runway. It was her last show with the house.
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