After being ushered to a cozy sofa and nestling myself between a stack of velvet cushions—and perhaps most importantly, being offered a tall glass of iced tea—I was able to take in my surroundings fully. Through the diamond-patterned windows, I could see the arched bows of gondolas floating by; inside, the taupe and cream walls were hung with an eclectic mix of paintings ranging from Baroque portraits of nobility to cutting-edge contemporary pieces that speak to the city’s current status as an art world hub, all lit by the gentle glow of 1950s Murano chandeliers lending the terrazzo flooring an alluring twinkle. I also watched with curiosity a stylist’s assistant carry in a stack of garment bags to be dropped off for a premiere later that evening, and overheard the names of a thrice-Oscar-nominated film director and his actor wife who were checking in later that day during the exchange. Though the supremely discrete staff gave nothing away when I enquired about any other A-listers who might have passed through its doors over the preceding week—this is not a place to see and be seen, despite the presence of eavesdroppers like myself, but rather a place where the glitterati come to find a peaceful haven one step removed from the chaos of the city.
To wit, I was swiftly whisked up to my room by a porter—endlessly helpful, without being overbearing—and discovered the hotel’s real magic trick: its Tardis-like ability to feel strangely spacious despite its appearance from the outside. I was set up in a seriously impressive suite with a bedroom, two bathrooms, and a living area all wrapped around a peaceful terrace surrounded by leafy potted plants and with plush outdoor furniture, with the only sounds being the squawk of seagulls and the occasional horn of a vaporetto carrying faintly on the breeze. The atmosphere is one of tasteful, discerning charm—but also gently playful, thanks to the custom-designed upholstery featuring patterns of rusticated brinks and loopy, hand-drawn Roman busts, and the Chinoiserie-inspired mural in my living area that whispered of Venice’s prominent role in the historic Silk Road.
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