1. Read the Label First
A list of ingredients that are hard to pronounce, let alone understand, can be downright overwhelming. So what are the key things to keep in mind? “Look for sunscreen that’s labeled broad-spectrum and has an SPF of at least 30,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s department of dermatology in New York City. “This means it protects against both UVB and UVA rays.”
One caveat about SPF levels: Doctors recommend at least 30, but according to the EWG, products with claims of high SPF values are often misleading. One problem is that the SPF value on product labels pertains only to UVB protection. So a sunscreen with an over-the-top SPF may not adequately shield skin from the harmful ultraviolet A rays that cause skin aging and possibly melanoma, the deadliest type of skin cancer.
High SPF products can also mislead people into thinking they are completely protected from sunburn and long-term skin damage. This false sense of security sometimes causes people to think it’s okay to spend more time in direct sunlight, so they end up getting more ultraviolet exposure, not less.
2. Learn the Pros and Cons of Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens
Some clean beauty proponents recommend mineral sunscreens over chemical ones. But not everyone agrees.
What’s the difference? “Mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide,” Dr. Zeichner says. These ingredients form a protective seal over the skin, reflecting UV light, though they can be chalky and can give skin a white tinge, he says. “Chemical sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UV light and prevent it from penetrating into the skin,” says Zeichner. “They absorb fully into the skin, but may cause irritation in people with sensitive skin.” For that reason, he says mineral sunscreens tend to be a better option for those with sensitivities.
The EWG also recommends mineral-based sunscreens made with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both, says Emily Spilman, the program manager on the healthy living science team at EWG in Washington, DC, who has been involved in their Sunscreens Guide.
Some people don’t like the white, pasty appearance that mineral sunscreen can give their face. “The knock on mineral sunscreens is that they are not cosmetically elegant; they leave a film, and that’s not great, especially on darker skin,” says Sapna Westley, MD, a dermatologist in private practice in New York City. That said, she notes that many patients of hers who go ahead and try a mineral-based product, in spite of these reservations, tend to end up liking it.
Holly Thaggard, the founder of Supergoop (a sunscreen brand) in San Antonio, Texas, says both mineral and chemical sunscreens can be right for you. “Chemical sunscreens absorb UV light, so your skin doesn’t, and they allow for weightless, sometimes clear formulas,” says Thaggard, noting that these are great for daily wear, multiple skin tones, the beach, and working out. “Mineral sunscreens are made up of tiny white, UV-protecting particles — zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both — and are more gentle, perfect for anyone with sensitive or acne-prone skin,” she says.
3. Watch Out for Oxybenzone and Avobenzone
Some experts recommend avoiding oxybenzone in sunscreens. “This ingredient may behave like estrogen,” Spilman says.
That said, some of the studies surrounding oxybenzone and related ingredients have been done on cells in a lab, so more research is needed to confirm the same effects in humans. Though there isn’t enough data for the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to categorize oxybenzone as generally recognized as safe and effective, the FDA doesn’t classify it as unsafe.
4. Look for Broad-Spectrum Sunblock
“When it comes to sun protection, most people tend to think only about sunburns,” says Thaggard. “But the truth is, they’re forgetting an entirely different type of damage. UVA rays enter the skin’s surface even deeper, and they can contribute to skin cancer and also cause signs of aging.” Thaggard notes that UVA rays are present throughout the year, even when it’s cloudy, so it’s important to wear sunscreen year-round.
5. Check Your Sunscreen’s Water Resistance
If you’re going to the beach or pool in the summer, a water-resistant sunscreen is a no-brainer. But it’s a pretty smart option for daily use as well, advises Dr. Westley. “The rule of thumb is that we tell people to reapply every two hours,” she says. “And a lot of people don’t realize that they’re sweating off their sunscreen throughout the day, especially when it’s humid out, so water-resistant sunscreens give people that extra protection even if they’re not in actual water.” Water-resistant sunscreens are labeled as such.
Since 2011, the FDA has banned manufacturers from claiming that any sunscreen is “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Labels can say “water resistant” only if the sunscreen has been proven to remain effective in water for either 40 or 80 minutes. “According to the FDA rules, sunscreen labels that claim to be water resistant must indicate how long you can wear the product while swimming or sweating before you need to reapply,” says Westley. “I recommend water resistance for up to 80 minutes just to give you that added coverage.”
6. Don’t Forgo Sun Protection in the Name of Vitamin D
“Internal medicine doctors will tell their patients, ‘Go sit in the sun for 10 minutes a day to get your vitamin D,’” says Westley. “And we dermatologists say, ‘No! Don’t do that without sun protection because you can get skin cancer,’ so that can get a bit controversial.”
7. Pick a Product You’ll Use Reliably
The EWG’s 20th Annual Guide to Sunscreens includes 130 SPF-containing products, including lip balms, moisturizers, and sunscreens. They offer an online tool where you can search EWG Verified products. Shoppers on the go can download EWG’s free Healthy Living app to get ratings and safety information on sunscreens and other personal-care products.
Zeichner points out it’s worth protecting skin against visible light, which isn’t associated with skin cancer, but can contribute to discoloration and melasma. Look for tinted sunscreens, which have iron oxide pigments that guard against this visible light, he says.
8. Don’t Rely on Sunscreen Alone for Sun Protection
Keep in mind that sunscreen by itself isn’t enough. “Proper sun protection includes protective clothing, like a lightweight, long-sleeved shirt, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses with UV protection,” Spilman says.
Westley tells her patients they can enjoy the outdoors but to be “sun smart,” especially between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun is strongest. Most importantly, make sunscreen a daily habit, like brushing your teeth. For easier reapplication and portability, choose a sunscreen powder or stick, she suggests.
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