OTC Remedies for Age Spots: What the Research Shows
Many OTC topical products have been shown to interrupt the process that creates dark spots in the skin. Here’s what dermatologists recommend.
Vitamin C
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is naturally present in skin. “Vitamin C is one of the most powerful ingredients for brightening skin and evening skin tone,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, a New York City–based dermatologist with Advanced Dermatology, PC, who has formulated cosmetic products. Vitamin C blocks the process that creates melanin, which helps prevent age spots from forming, she explains. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme required to produce melanin.
Retinoids
Retinoids are a derivative of vitamin A that come in several forms. Over the counter, you’ll typically find them as retinol. All retinoids work by speeding up skin-cell turnover, which can help with dark spots. But retinoids also work directly on the process that creates discoloration in the skin, Dr. Bowe explains. Like vitamin C, retinoids also inhibit tyrosinase. They also encourage the skin to shed its outer cells, helping break up the clumps of pigment that show up as dark spots.
One downside of retinoids is they often cause dryness, irritation, itching, burning, and redness. To limit irritation, ease in gradually by applying it just once every three nights at first, then increasing frequency as your skin adjusts. Applying a moisturizer on top can also help, making it easier to stay consistent over time.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of acids — including glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids — that are common in anti-aging skin-care products.
“Alpha-hydroxy acids accelerate cell turnover, encouraging the skin to shed its hyperpigmented surface cells faster and replace them with newer, less discolored ones,” Anolik says. “They don’t suppress melanin production directly — they just help clear the evidence,” he adds.
Glycolic acid is the most potent AHA, while lactic acid penetrates more slowly into the skin and has hydrating properties, says Anolik. If you have sensitive skin, lactic acid is a gentler choice. For darker skin tones, mandelic acid may be the best option. “It’s the gentlest of the group and has been specifically studied for hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones, where the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is a bigger concern,” Anolik says.
Niacinamide
This vitamin B3 derivative takes a different approach to fading discoloration. “This ingredient works by essentially standing in the way of the pigment transfer process,” Anolik explains. “It doesn’t stop melanin from being made; it stops it from being delivered. Think of it as a traffic blocker,” he says.
One older study found that a 4 percent niacinamide moisturizer significantly reduced hyperpigmentation after eight weeks of use. But the study was small — including just 27 people with hyperpigmentation — and research overall remains limited.
When looking for a product, choose those with a 4 to 5 percent concentration of niacinamide (this should be listed on the label). This is the concentration that’s most effective, per research, Anolik says.
